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与你及远帆或其他人研究: Roofing DIY part 1 "Tear Off".

本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Roofing
Tear Off


Tearing off an old roof doesn't take a lot of special skill. Basically, you just pry up the shingles using a pitchfork or shovel. Before you begin a tear off, protect trees and shrubs near the house by leaning up plywood sheets.


Locate a construction dumpster, pickup, truck or other container close to the roof. Toss the shingles directly into the container to save from having to pick them up later and to prevent nails from getting lost in the lawn. You may even want to build a temporary chute to funnel shingles into the container. If you're using a pickup or trailer, be careful not to overload it.

Pull up any exposed nails instead of pounding them down. Otherwise, they may work back up. Replace any damaged or missing sheathing, fascia or soffits. We used plywood, but oriented strand board is a good subsitute.


It's often difficult to judge how long shingling may take. Of course, the best option is to only tear off as much as can be replaced before bad weather hits. But, you may want to fasten temporary tarps at the roof peaks in case of rain or unpredictable weather.


It's always a good idea to pick up stray nails on the ground at some time during the project. However. since the roof is now exposed, time and weather conditions become important factors. So, it's usually best to do that last or as soon as the roof has underlayment.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
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Replies, comments and Discussions:

  • 枫下家园 / 美丽家居 / 请较各位,我想换房顶,要多少钱,有私工队推荐吗?谢谢!
    • 纯属瞎猜. 看到人家换过觉得巨简单, 就一张张铺了沾上,钉上就完了, 上面在交接的地方局部覆盖下面的就行...
      • looks easy... but when you are in that height....and the top is not level.... man...............
        • 没问题. 窃以为... 当年我在20多米高的脚手架上爬来爬去, 安全绳都不系的, 当然现在水平下降了.
          • oh, Thanks, 我要也能登高作业就好了.
            • 不鼓励不提倡. 呵呵
          • 房顶跟脚手架很不一样。在房顶上一旦踩错地方,就漏下去了。
      • 我帮你换吧,价钱好商量,8年北美经验,保证你满意。
        我下月到多仑多
        • Thanks qates, welcome to Toronto and make our roofing...
          • 谢谢,等我来了后给你联系,我来当师傅,你,和你的朋友来当小工,这样既省钱,又没有后顾之忧。
            • Thanks, Deal! I will send you an email as well.
    • 好像得过千,另外,有一种省钱的办法,就是在原来的瓦上面再盖上一层,可以省去部分施工费用。但是,如果原来已经是两层瓦的,就不能用这个办法了。
      • thanks, lmx
    • 与你及远帆或其他人研究: Roofing DIY part 1 "Tear Off".
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Roofing
      Tear Off


      Tearing off an old roof doesn't take a lot of special skill. Basically, you just pry up the shingles using a pitchfork or shovel. Before you begin a tear off, protect trees and shrubs near the house by leaning up plywood sheets.


      Locate a construction dumpster, pickup, truck or other container close to the roof. Toss the shingles directly into the container to save from having to pick them up later and to prevent nails from getting lost in the lawn. You may even want to build a temporary chute to funnel shingles into the container. If you're using a pickup or trailer, be careful not to overload it.

      Pull up any exposed nails instead of pounding them down. Otherwise, they may work back up. Replace any damaged or missing sheathing, fascia or soffits. We used plywood, but oriented strand board is a good subsitute.


      It's often difficult to judge how long shingling may take. Of course, the best option is to only tear off as much as can be replaced before bad weather hits. But, you may want to fasten temporary tarps at the roof peaks in case of rain or unpredictable weather.


      It's always a good idea to pick up stray nails on the ground at some time during the project. However. since the roof is now exposed, time and weather conditions become important factors. So, it's usually best to do that last or as soon as the roof has underlayment.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
    • Part 2 "Underlayment & Flashing "
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Roofing
      Underlayment & Flashing


      In most areas of the country, a roof can't withstand exposure to the elements with just a layer of shingles to protect it. An additional underlayment layer(s) is needed to deter water penetration.


      Properly sealing out water before shingling requires these elements:


      Laying A Waterproofing Membrane
      Rolling Out Builder's Felt
      Installing Flashing
      Fastening Drip Edges

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------



      Laying A Waterproofing Membrane

      Start by adding a waterproofing membrane along eaves and valleys. These are high-risk areas for leaks; valleys due to improper flashing installation and eaves because of ice dams. We used a thick, bituminous material with an adhesive backing.


      The membrane protection provides extra protection against water penetration and is also required by code in "Snow Belt" states at the eaves.


      Waterproofing membrane material can be considerably more expensive than just using felt. Most professional roofers recommend the extra protection, and for a do-it-yourselfer, it's good insurance against a leaky roof.



      Rolling Out Builder's Felt

      Builder's felt (tar paper) is the most widely used roofing underlayment. It comes in rolls and its thickness is gauged in pounds. Typically, a roll of 15 lb. felt may cover about 400 sq. ft. and a roll of 30lb. would cover half that area.


      Laying felt is much easier and faster with two people; one rolling, one stapling/nailing. Position the felt roll flush with the gable end.


      Working toward the far end or valley, unroll about 5' of felt, square it with the roof edges, press out any wrinkles, and staple/nail it in place as you go. Proceed at 5' intervals to the far end. When you run into a valley, angle cut the felt to lie down the middle of the valley. If you forego the membrane, lay down extra felt at the valleys.


      Overlap the second row of felt on the first row by 2". Work up the roof this way to the ridge (peak). Leave the ridge exposed and continue underlayment on the other side. When you reach the ridge, fold the felt over both sides (overlapping 2") and fasten it into position.


      Once the roof has underlayment, it can withstand exposure for a few days. However, if it gets wet, the felt may wrinkle up a bit and that increases its chances of tearing by wind.



      Installing Flashing

      In some cases, metal flashing can be saved and reused during a tear off. But any flashing that is bent, torn or looks bad should be replaced, instead of repaired.


      One type of flashing we recommend is galvanized steel, W-shaped valley flashing. It fits in the valley like typical "V" flashing, but has a small ridge sticking up in the middle. This ridge prevents runoff rain from running down one side of the roof and splashing up under shingles on the opposing side.

      Set the flashing flush with the drip edges at the bottom of the valley, trimming it with tin snips if necessary. Nail the flashing every 1' or so near its outside edges (never nail in or near the middle). For extra protection, seal seams between pieces and all nailheads with roofing cement.



      Fastening Drip Edges

      Drip edges are corner-shaped metal strips that nail along the edges of the roof. They allow water from the roof to run cleanly off the edge. Without a drip edge, water may run down the side of the fascia and siding -- causing stains and eventual damage. The drip edge also supports the part of the shingle that extends past the decking.


      Along the eave, nail the drip edge under the builder's felt and over the fascia. As an extra precaution, you may want to cover the nailheads with roofing cement then stick the felt down.


      At the rake (overhang), install the drip edge over the felt and fascia. This protects the felt from high winds and blowing rain.

      NOTE: The length of eaves and rakes may require using more than one piece of drip edge. Like flashing, lap upper pieces over lower pieces.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
    • Part 3 "Shingling"
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Roofing
      Shingling


      Shingling is a notoriously hot and exhausting job, and working alone is a chore for anyone. It's usually easier, faster and safer to work with a partner. Also, renting a compressor and pneumatic nailer/stapler is money well spent on a big project.

      WARNING: Working on a roof is always dangerous. If you feel uncomfortable or unsure about working on the roof, don't. Hire someone to do the work for you.

      How Many Shingles?
      Getting Straight Lines
      Laying The First Courses
      Racking Shingles
      Using Roof Jacks
      Safety Issues and Tips

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------



      How Many Shingles?

      The surface area of a roof is measured in "squares" of shingles. Each square covers 100 square feet. However, when you buy shingles, they're usually priced per bundle.


      Calculate the number of bundles needed by measuring the roof's square footage (length X width). Divide that number by 100 to get the number of squares needed. Multiply the number of squares by 3 (in most cases) or the number of bundles it takes to equal one square. Again, in most cases 3 bundles = 1 square.



      Getting Straight Lines

      Throughout the shingling process, a sure-fire way to get straight lines and make a roofing job look professional is to snap chalklines.


      An experienced roofer may be able to just butt the next shingle square with the previous one, but getting them all straight takes some practice and never guarantees straight lines. So we encourage you to take a few extra minutes and snap some chalklines for key areas.


      A horizontal line across the starter strip to guide the top of the first row.


      After the first course of shingles is laid, snap a vertical line the height of the roof to indicate the inside edge of the first shingle. This mark will be a guideline for the first shingle in the 3rd, 5th, 7th, etc. rows.


      After the second course is laid, snap a vertical chalkline to indicate the inside edge of the second row's first shingle. This mark is the guideline for the 2nd, 4th, 6th, etc. rows.



      Laying The First Courses

      Lay a starter strip before the first full course of shingles. The starter strip consists of "tabless" shingles that you can make by cutting the tabs from regular shingles. To discourage water penetration, stagger the starter joints from the first course joints.


      Shingling methods tends to vary. One person may start with a full shingle on the first row and cut a shingle to fit at the end -- depending on the roof distance. Sometimes, this method creates a tiny 1" to 3" piece at the end. So it's best to measure the length of a full shingle (usually 36") and divide it into the length of the roof (in inches) to figure how the shingles will lay out.


      If you want the shingle to overhang (ours extended 1/4"), that factors into the length. That required us to precut the end shingles before nailing them.

      In other cases, you may be able to let the first shingle run wild, cut it flush and use that "scrap" piece on the opposing end to complete the row. Again, how you start each row depends on the shingle and roof lengths.


      Nail the first course of shingles at each end and middle tabs about 1/2" to 5/8" above the tabs.


      Stagger the first shingle of the second course 6" short of the first course shingle, so their tabs don't set directly above the first row tabs.



      Racking Shingles

      Racking is a shingling method that professional roofers utilize. It's intended to get as many shingles laid as possible without having to move back and forth across the roof


      Nail down the first row as far as you can comfortably reach (about 3-6 shingles across). Then do the second row, but leave the end tab unfastened so when you do move, the next first row shingle can slide into position under the loose end.

      Work each row up the roof this way, leaving the end tabs unfastened where a lower shingle goes. Rack the rows as far as you can comfortably reach, then move over. Slide the next section of shingles under the unfastened ends, staple/nail both shingles, and continue to rack the rows.


      Although racking is a fast way to shingle, it can have drawbacks. If bundles of shingles vary in color, racked areas may look different. It's also easy to forget to fasten shingle ends that get covered up.



      Using Roof Jacks

      After completing 3 to 5 rows from scaffolding or a ladder, add roof jacks to access the upper rows. Roof jacks are typically thick gauge steel brackets that hold planks in position.


      Underneath a completed row of shingles, start a nail through the decking and rafter, hook the jack onto the nail, and hammer the nail down completely. Then fasten a second nail on the lower hook slot. Line up and fasten the opposing jack the same way and set a sturdy plank on the jacks.

      NOTE: It's a good idea to put jacks and boards across all the eaves in case you slip or something slides down the roof.

      Avoid walking excessively on the felt and shingles during hot days. Both can get soft and are easy to damage and cutting them can get a little gooey. If you can, schedule to avoid the midday hours when the roof is hottest (usually 12:30 to 2:30).更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
    • Part 4 "DIY"
      It sonds too hard, do you think you can DIY? Any input is welcomed.
      • Thank you so much for your very detail instruction. you are expert! 对于DIY,我还是没有信心, 毕竟是房顶,须登高作业,更重要的是,万一搞的不好,房子要漏的呀! 再次谢谢carfan专家.
        如果跟一个老师傅一起做, 又能保证质量,又能省一些钱,倒是满好的.
        • It is one of the roofing season. Walk down the street, you can see your neighbor is having his/her roof repair. You may learn something by talking to them.
          • good idea.
    • 大概2200左右。
      • Thank you, lego. good to know.
    • 最好找施工队吧。一方面屋外施工需要licence(没人告你就无所谓了),另一方面不是想象得那么容易。
      我房东近一年自己重新分割和翻新了整栋房子,唯独三样不是他自己做的。屋顶(施工队),木地板(施工队),电视/电话/计算机线路(我做的)。原因很简单,licence/工具/工艺不同。另外价钱也不是2200能够搞定的,大约材料就会过这个数。我住的房顶翻新花了8000块(房屋建筑面积大约1000ft2),我一个朋友的房子花了差不多14000块(房价是200万多一点,面积不祥)。
      • "14000块(房价是200万多一点",按比例,那么20多万的房子也2200能够搞定的。
        • 按面积,材料等级和人工,不按房价。我住的房子值100万,但要换到温哥华东区就只值40-50万,到surry,最多25-26万。
          • waaaaa
    • want to change roof (around 2000sq house with 2 attached garage), how much it should be (including tear off)? what deal did you get if you change roof recently?