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I DIYed one in 2011 - Vannee 190H for a 2800 sqft house

本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Hi, I can share my experience.

I moved to my new house in May 2011. There was no provision for HRV/ERV. I DIYed my ERV system.
I bought a used Venmar Duo 1.9 ERV from KIJIJI for $800, Vanee Platinum Control for $140 from Ebay, plus the cost for other accessories (pipe, zoning-damper, etc.) and labor/rental (core-drilling through brick veneer for two 6” holes), I spent ~$1400 to get the job done.

Venmar Duo 1.9 is a similar system compared with Vannee 190H (same motor).

So here is what I did to save energy cost:

I didn't interlock the ERV with the furnace. The ERV runs independently using the existing HVAC ducts. The power consumption of Duo 1.9 ERV is about 200W per hour. The energy difference for the PSC motor running at max and min mode is negligible. My furnace is a single-stage HE Lennox. To run the furnace fan requires additional 2~300W per hour. The energy penalty is significant if the system runs 24/7. On the other hand, the PSV motor inside the Duo 1.9 is big enough to push the fresh air through the entire house even if the furnace is off. The disadvantages are: the fresh air distribution is not as even; you may feel cold air draft from the vents if the furnace is off.

To save the energy cost, I run the ERV at max mode for 4 hours per day to get the recommended air exchange rate (to change the entire air volume in the house in 3 hours). To run the ERV intermittently, I use the Vanee Platinum control (similar to Venmar Altitude). It has multiple settings. For wintertime I run the system 30min every hour for 8 hours from 3:00pm to 11:00pm when most family members are home and the outdoor temperature is not too low. The Platinum control is installed right beside the control for the furnace.
http://www.venmar.ca/en/product/root-ca ... parent=766


For ERV installation, I used the ‘return-supply’ installation method recommended by the manufacturer (see figure below) with minor change. Instead of using the recommended elbow to tap the ERV to the supply duct of the furnace, I added a normally closed 24V AC automatic damper in between to minimize the interference. This automatic damper is controlled by the ERV. There is a pair of dry contacts on ERV to interlock the furnace. I used the dry contacts to interlock the damper instead. I ran a 110V circuit to supply the 24V transformer for the damper. The advantages: there is no elbow blocking the supply duct. When the furnace is on while the ERV is off, there is no air bypassing through the ERV. And the system is easier to balance under various conditions.
See the link below for the automatic damper.
http://www.amazon.com/6-IN-NORMALLY-CLO ... =pd_cp_p_1

BTW, I didn’t run the air-balance test for ERV as recommended by the manufacturer. I realized my 600CFM range hood can cause bigger trouble (in Ontario, there is no air compensation required for the range hood.) So far the ERV system runs well both in winter and in summer.
A reminder, even if the ERV can recoup some humidity from the exhaust, the air can still dry out soon to an uncomfortable level. I run a central humidifier in winter to compensate.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
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Replies, comments and Discussions:

  • 枫下家园 / 美丽家居 / IT大叔小修小补 - 若要室内空气好, 唯有源头室外来. +3
    • 不明觉厉!
    • 你买了什么牌子和model的HRV?
      • 型号是Vanee 60H
    • +1。这个效果不错,我接了一个定时器,每天在电费半价是运行。别忘了定期清洁滤网。
      • 加个定时器是个好主意
      • 你的定时器接在hrv上吗?那是不是每天还得去手动关暖炉的风扇
        • 接插头上,定时器,明天自动开机停机 +1
        • 每天自动开关
          • 你这不符合code要求呀,暖炉要单独一个breaker,至少没见过把暖炉接个插头的
            • 你在说什么??
    • 你这种接法blower得一直开着,那可是几百瓦呀,还是想办法接根管吧hev才几十瓦省多了。我把主卧衣橱里的一个出风口改造了一下做出气口。 +1
      • 那个电机不到100W
        • 这个有点儿误导,ECM电机最小输出才100瓦,正常功率都是几百瓦,肯定还有很多家里用psc电机
          • 电机不大,曾经拆出来过,压差不大,不需要大功率
          • 电机

             

    • I DIYed one in 2011 - Vannee 190H for a 2800 sqft house +1
      本文发表在 rolia.net 枫下论坛Hi, I can share my experience.

      I moved to my new house in May 2011. There was no provision for HRV/ERV. I DIYed my ERV system.
      I bought a used Venmar Duo 1.9 ERV from KIJIJI for $800, Vanee Platinum Control for $140 from Ebay, plus the cost for other accessories (pipe, zoning-damper, etc.) and labor/rental (core-drilling through brick veneer for two 6” holes), I spent ~$1400 to get the job done.

      Venmar Duo 1.9 is a similar system compared with Vannee 190H (same motor).

      So here is what I did to save energy cost:

      I didn't interlock the ERV with the furnace. The ERV runs independently using the existing HVAC ducts. The power consumption of Duo 1.9 ERV is about 200W per hour. The energy difference for the PSC motor running at max and min mode is negligible. My furnace is a single-stage HE Lennox. To run the furnace fan requires additional 2~300W per hour. The energy penalty is significant if the system runs 24/7. On the other hand, the PSV motor inside the Duo 1.9 is big enough to push the fresh air through the entire house even if the furnace is off. The disadvantages are: the fresh air distribution is not as even; you may feel cold air draft from the vents if the furnace is off.

      To save the energy cost, I run the ERV at max mode for 4 hours per day to get the recommended air exchange rate (to change the entire air volume in the house in 3 hours). To run the ERV intermittently, I use the Vanee Platinum control (similar to Venmar Altitude). It has multiple settings. For wintertime I run the system 30min every hour for 8 hours from 3:00pm to 11:00pm when most family members are home and the outdoor temperature is not too low. The Platinum control is installed right beside the control for the furnace.
      http://www.venmar.ca/en/product/root-ca ... parent=766


      For ERV installation, I used the ‘return-supply’ installation method recommended by the manufacturer (see figure below) with minor change. Instead of using the recommended elbow to tap the ERV to the supply duct of the furnace, I added a normally closed 24V AC automatic damper in between to minimize the interference. This automatic damper is controlled by the ERV. There is a pair of dry contacts on ERV to interlock the furnace. I used the dry contacts to interlock the damper instead. I ran a 110V circuit to supply the 24V transformer for the damper. The advantages: there is no elbow blocking the supply duct. When the furnace is on while the ERV is off, there is no air bypassing through the ERV. And the system is easier to balance under various conditions.
      See the link below for the automatic damper.
      http://www.amazon.com/6-IN-NORMALLY-CLO ... =pd_cp_p_1

      BTW, I didn’t run the air-balance test for ERV as recommended by the manufacturer. I realized my 600CFM range hood can cause bigger trouble (in Ontario, there is no air compensation required for the range hood.) So far the ERV system runs well both in winter and in summer.
      A reminder, even if the ERV can recoup some humidity from the exhaust, the air can still dry out soon to an uncomfortable level. I run a central humidifier in winter to compensate.更多精彩文章及讨论,请光临枫下论坛 rolia.net
      • 赞,讲的比我清楚,大家可以参考。
      • 我的也是Vannee 190H. 2011 安装的。Total cost 1500. 我的是和furnace风扇 coupled的: 开/关HRV,furnace风扇也开/关。因为没有自己单独的duct,需要借助风扇, 不然不好使。
    • HRV很耗电吗?我总是一直开着,不太清楚什么时候该开什么时候该关。另外,HRV开着,但暖炉或者空调没开,风扇也没转,那有用吗?
      • HRV耗电很少,如果安装时有单独的排气管道可以单独工作,只有进出风都用现有管道才需要开风扇,防止新鲜空气被污染
        • 谢谢。排风似乎有自己的管道,是小的圆的。HRV有单独的控制器,我猜是可以独立工作吧。不耗电我就那么开着吧。
          • 这本来就是一个锦上添花的东东,如果你怕费电,那完全不必安装。。。
        • 不开风扇,没有循环,没有用,肯定是接线没接对。HRV有控制线需要连到炉子,联动炉子的风扇。
      • 是一种“恒温“换气装置,由独立管道,auto可以根据室内外温差自动开启和关闭。
      • 那是没装对,HRV和炉子的风扇联动的,HRV一开,风扇就会转,他是靠炉子的通风系统来循环空气的。你风扇没转,没有用。 +1
        • 有自己的空气循环动力
          • 那个功率太小了,没啥用。
      • 这里的热交换芯是塑料的,但效果还不错。国内都用铝。
      • 彻底晕了。HRV是builder装的,跟Heating和cooling系统是两个单独的控制器。难道我要开着HRV,并且在冷热那里把风扇调成ON才起作用?
        • 不需要。因为要换热,所以流量小,让HRV长时间低速运转。 +1